Tech Tips
These instructions
for the homemade Carburetor tool are the updates I made to a version by Hugh
Kenny I found at http://www.airheads.org/index.php?Technical%20Tips+%244%20Carburetor%20Synchornizer
who improved on a version by Marty Ignazito at http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp
Here's the
Materials List for the Shop Made Carb Synchronizer Tool:
 | 20 feet of clear vinyl tubing -inside diameter
big enough to slip on the vacuum nipple.(Check your shop manual for more
information) |
| A yard stick. |
| 1X4X4’ Board. |
| #6 - ½” screws or small brad nails |
| Double Point Staples |
| A tiny amount of automatic transmission fluid -
ATF won't hurt the engine if it accidentally gets sucked in the vacuum port. |
Building the Synchronizer
Fold your 20' of
vinyl tubing in half and mark the center point. Screw or nail the yardstick
down flat on the 1X4, centering it. Place the center point of the tubing at the
bottom end of your yardstick and tack in place with the double point staples.
Carefully run the tubing up each side of the yardstick, making sure that the
tubing makes a smooth, non-kinked bend at the bottom and tack it in place with
the double point staples. Drill a small hole in the top of the 1X4 so it can be
hung from the wall.
You now have tubing
running around the perimeter of the yardstick and about seven feet of tubing
hangs down from the left and right sides of the 'stick. I fold a piece of tape
around each end of the tubing like a little flag and mark the left side with an
"L" and the right side with an "R" using a magic marker.
Now, put one side
of the tubing in the container of automatic transmission fluid and, using the
other side of the tubing like a drinking straw, suck ATF fluid about three feet
up into the tubing. Maintaining suction for a second, pull the tubing out of
the ATF container and then raise BOTH ends of the tubing above the top of the
yardstick. Temporarily fasten both ends of the tubing high enough that the ATF
drains down to the loop at the bottom of the yardstick. I recommend leaving it
overnight so that all the bubbles, etc. work their way out.
Once the ATF has
settled into the bottom of the tubing, the balancer is almost ready to use. If
everything has gone according to plan, you should now have a nicely graduated
rule hanging from the ceiling with a thermometer-like tube running up both
sides, with the red "thermometer" fluid about half-way up each side
at identical heights. Cut a piece of black electrical tape just long enough to
cover the width of your ruler and use it to mark the height of the fluid. Your
super-accurate Carburetor
Please send any comments to me at Joe.sweet@netzero.com
PS: Care must be taken while the vinyl tubing is attached to the Goldwing. Although I had no problem when I adjusted my 88 the tubing can get very soft when hot. I will be looking for a way to eliminate this problem and will post it here.
By David Sawyer
http://davesgoldwing.com/power_distribution.htm
KG6FNH
If you're like many other Goldwing owners, myself included, tend to add items that need power. Cell Phones, CD Players, Radar Detectors, Lights, etc. To try and wire all these to your one single accessory connection on a single 5 amp fuse just doesn't work. The following is my solution to getting all the gadgets powered and safe.
I used a power fuse block distribution panel:
The photo above shows 2 separate buss panels each with 6 fusible lugs. The buss panels are available at your local auto supply store and cost around $10.00. They are both attached to the battery hold down bracket with wire ties and do not interfere with the battery removal or maintenance. The top panel is for accessories while the bottom panel is for items direct from the battery like my CD player, cigarette lighter cell phone power and relays.
The above is a closer view picture. I used 14 gauge wire to go from the main power lug on the panel to the power source. As you can maybe see from the photo the bottom power lug has a yellow wire from it direct to the battery positive terminal while the upper panel has a white going to a relay that goes to the accessory fused terminal.
The relay, shown below, helps reduce the draw on the power:
And as shown, the 3 relays above fit nicely under the seat.
With the above system of fusible power sources I do not any longer need to have the glass in-line fuses and I no longer need to dig through wiring to find the fuse as well as having a much cleaner instillation of wiring for toys and accessories.
I currently have the following installed on my bike that are going through my power distribution panels:
Cell Phone - 2 Connections (1 from accessory and 1 from the battery)
Radar Detector - 1 connection
Cigarette Lighter - 1 Connection going through a relay
Fog lamps - 2 connections (1 for power to the lights and 1 for the relay).
CD player - 2 connections (1 for CD Player memory to the battery and 1 to accessory)
Trunk Lights - 1 connection
GPS
Air Horns - 1 connection
Update:
I updated my panel a little since I first wrote this and labeled my wires so that they can be identified easier.
In retrospect, after looking at my setup I plan on making changes.
1. I will use a better grade of labels. I am looking for some good cloth tape to use.
2. I will change my battery to panel connection to a fusable link.